Email: info@lo-chlor.co.uk | Tel: +44 (0) 1639 823 233

GREEN POOL PROBLEMS

Got a green pool? Then you’ve got algae. Algae consumes alot of pool chemicals and relies on phosphates to survive.

PRODUCT SELECTOR

WHICH PRODUCT IS BEST FOR ELIMINATING ALGAE?

This can depend on what type of algae you have and whether or not you are looking to kill it or prevent algae growth in a clear pool. All of our algaecides are very effective at both killing algae and preventing future growth. Our range of products include long life copper based treatments, copper free weekly treatments and specialist treatment for Blackspot and Winterisation.


WHICH PRODUCT FOR RE-OCCURING ALGAE?

This depends on the level of phosphate in your pool! At the start of the season if the level is above 2ppm (2000ppb) then we recommend treating with our most powerful product Starver® X. Once you get the level down to 1.2ppm (1200ppb) then we recommend using Starver® as part of your regular pool maintenance regime.

Lo Chlor Starver
PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN THE CURE
If all you do is treat your current algae infestation and not the underlying cause, then algae will keep reappearing at three weekly intervals. REMEMBER NO PHOSPHATE = NO ALGAE

TELL ME MORE ABOUT ALGAE

Algae are microscopic plants. Like all plants algae require nutrients to exist. Algae obtain their food from leaves, plants and all organic matter (including bathers). There are in excess of 30,000 different species, and in an effort to make their identification easier, the swimming pool industry classifies them as:

Blue-Green Algae – Tends to be of the floating variety.
Mustard Algae – Yellow mustard in colour, hence the name, and tends to cling to the pool interior via cracks and crevices.
Pink Algae – Not really algae, but in fact bacteria which forms a pink layer or clear slime over surfaces.
Black Algae (also known as Black Spot) – Black in colour, hence the name, and tends to cling to the pool interior via cracks and crevices.

WHAT CAUSES ALGAE TO GROW IN POOLS?

Algae Spores – Are always present in the air. The everyday management of a swimming pool includes preventing these algae spores from germinating.
Low Chlorine Levels – If the Free Chlorine level has been allowed to drop below 3.0ppm in Summer, for whatever reason, then an environment has been created that will promote algae growth.
High pH – Algae prefer swimming pool water with a high pH. One reason is that Chlorine is much less effective as the pH increases.
High Phosphate – Even if the Free Chlorine level and water balance are OK the presence of phosphate will encourage algae to grow. Phosphate is the one of the main food sources for algae and can be introduced into your swimming pool from various sources including lawn and garden fertilizers, decaying vegetation, municipal water, cosmetic items on bathers, and even other pool chemicals.
Poor Water Circulation – Algae will grow in certain areas of the pool where the circulation is poor. Such areas tend to be on the steps, in the corners, in cracks and crevices and between the pebbles in pebble pools. These areas are sometimes known as “dead spots”.
Lack Of Brushing – Most types of algae need a surface to cling to therefore weekly brushing of the walls and the bottom of the pool will help prevent this.
No Superchlorination – Superchlorination by definition is the addition of a three times the daily dose of Chlorine to the pool every two weeks. The main reason why you should superchlorinate is to burn out Chloramines, which are ammonia compounds present in the water. Chloramines provide Nitrogen for algae growth and also use up Free Chlorine residuals in the water. Superchlorination will also kill algae spores.

RE-OCCURING ALGAE

Re-occurring algae is a common problem with over 60% of swimming pools suffering with this symptom during the summer season. The simple fact of the matter is that killing algae is only the first stage and you have to understand the underlying reason why algae keeps growing back.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN ALGAE IS KILLED?

Algae is a living microorganism and when the cellular structure is destroyed using traditional methods, such as Chlorine and Algaecide, its food source is released back into the water. This food source is known as Phosphate.

WHERE DOES PHOSPHATE COME FROM?

Phosphate is the one of the main food sources for algae and can be introduced into your swimming pool from various sources including in lawn and garden fertilizers, decaying vegetation, municipal water, cosmetic items on bathers, and even other pool chemicals.

HOW DO I PREVENT RE-OCCURRING ALGAE?

The best way of eliminating the risk of re-occurring algae is taking out the phosphate after your initial algae bloom. This is achieved by using one of our phosphate prevention and removal products. The ideal time is on commissioning your pool on Spring open up. You should test your source water for phosphate using a suitable test kit and if you have a high phosphate reading then you should use one of our phosphate products throughout the season.

WHICH LO-CHLOR PHOSPHATE PRODUCT IS BEST?

This depends on the level of phosphate in your pool! At the start of the season if the level is above 2ppm (2000ppb) then we recommend treating with our most powerful product Starver® X. Once you get the level down to 1.2ppm (1200ppb) then we recommend using Starver® as part of your regular pool maintenance regime.

ISNT THIS JUST ADDING MORE COST TO RUNNING MY POOL?

This is far from the truth as phosphate actually creates what we call “demand” for other pool chemicals such as chlorine and algaecide. By taking out the phosphate you reduce the demand which means that your chlorine and algaecides last longer as there is less work for them to do. Typical savings on chlorine and algaecides are around 35% during a season thus saving you money and introducing lower amounts of harsh chemicals into your swimming pool water.

SO TO STOP RE-OCCURRING ALGAE I JUST NEED TO STARVE ITS FOOD CHAIN?

Yes, it is as simple as that and that is why our products are called Starver®. You must also ensure that post treatment you maintain the correct water balance parameters, including the use of a registered algaecide, to ensure your water is kept in perfect condition.

WHY SHOULD I USE A LO-CHLOR PHOSPHATE REMOVER?

Lo-Chlor Chemicals is recognised as the global leader in phosphate removal since the launch of Starver® in the mid 1990’s. Our advancements in this area has changed the way we treat algae in domestic and commercial swimming pools. We recognised many years ago that phosphate levels were a growing problem, and will continue to be so, due to the use of orthophosphate in our incoming source water supply. That is why in 2013 we developed Starver® X, our strongest phosphate remover to date, to tackle this problem head on. Our Starver® phosphate removal technology is now sold in more than 50 countries worldwide and its popularity has seen it become universally recognised as the most revolutionary and effective speciality chemical to reach the pool and spa market to date. REMEMBER NO PHOSPHATE = NO ALGAE!

BLACK SPOT ALGAE TREATMENT

Black Spot Algae can be one of the most difficult algae infestations to cure. Prior to treating you should consider the following:
a. How many Black Spots are there: For the average pool owner this will be a wild guess but it is important that you add enough Lo-Chlor Total Pool Algaecide to kill all the Black Spot. If you only kill half, the remaining spots will multiply and in two weeks the pool will look the same as before treatment.
b. How long the Black Spots have been present: The longer the Black Spot has been present, the longer the treatment time can take. With Black Spot the key to dealing with the problem is to act quickly – as soon as it appears. Black Spots have a root which grow back into both pool surfaces and grout which is why if the Black Spot has been there a long time it may take weeks to kill it. Even after water blasting or acid washing the roots will not be killed so use of an algaecide is essential.

 

  1. Thoroughly backwash your filter – this ensures efficient filtration during the treatment period.
  2. Lower the pH between 6.8 – 7.0 – This ensures that the outer waxy coating of the algae is weakened.
  3. Thoroughly brush all wall and floor surfaces – Always use a suitable algae brush. This action will enable the algaecide to destroy the black algae cells.
  4. Add the required dose of Black Spot Algaecide – This is a copper based dual action algaecide. If copper based algaecides cannot be used, then dose Knock-Out Algaecide.
  5. Test Phosphate Level & Add a Lo-Chlor Phosphate Remover – Your choice will be dependent on the level of phosphate however in most circumstances Starver® X would be the best product to use at this stage.
  6. Re-Balance Pool – It is important that post treatment you re-balance your pool ensuring all parameters are within the recommended levels. With mustard algae you should maintain Free Chlorine levels at 3.0ppm and pH at 7.2 to 7.6 for the next month. We suggest ongoing regular use of Starver® Phosphate Remover to ensure phosphate do not make the algae reappear.

Please note: During this treatment process the use of the pool is prohibited until the pool water has been correctly re-balanced in line with the recommended parameters.

GREEN ALGAE TREATMENT

Using our extensive knowledge of algae, we have summarised some key points on how to deal with green algae:

  1. Thoroughly backwash your filter – This ensures efficient filtration during the treatment period.
  2. Lower the pH to between 6.8 – 7.0 – At this level the outer waxy coating becomes weakened or liaised.
  3. Thoroughly brush all walls and floor surfaces using a suitable algae brush – This action further destroys the cellular structure. Pay particular attention to the steps and where the walls and floor meet
  4. Superchlorinate the pool water – Use liquid chlorine (20L per 50,000 litres of pool water: 19L in the pool and 1L directly in the skimmer) as this is both cheaper and quicker in reacting with the algae. You should see any green colour bleach out within 2 hours. If there are still green patches, add more liquid chlorine until the colour has been bleached out.
  5. Add Hydrochloric Acid – At a rate of 1L per 50,000 litres of pool water in order to neutralise the alkalinity that you have just added with your liquid chlorine.
  6. Test Phosphate Level – Preferably the next day, however, if you are sure that all the algae are dead this can be completed no sooner than 2 hours after adding your liquid chlorine.
  7. Add a Lo-Chlor Phosphate Remover – Your choice will be dependent on the level of phosphate however in most circumstances Starver® X would be the best product to use at this stage.
  8. Filter & Backwash – You should continue filtration for a period of 12 hours as most of the dead algae would have collected in the filter during this period. After 12 hours thoroughly backwash and rinse the filter and then turn the circulation pump off. If there is any residue present of the floor of the pool, then vacuum to waste.
  9. Add Algaecide – Turn the circulation pump back on then add your Lo-Chlor Algaecide of choice.
  10. Re-Balance Pool – It is important that post treatment you re-balance your pool ensuring all parameters are within the recommended levels. We suggest ongoing regular use of Starver® Phosphate Remover to ensure phosphate do not make the algae reappear.

Please note: During this treatment process the use of the pool is prohibited until the pool water has been correctly re-balanced in line with the recommended parameters.

MUSTARD ALGAE TREATMENT

Mustard Algae is a fine yellow-brown dust which can be easily brushed off the floor and walls of the pool. Typically, when brushed, the dust disappears for 24 hours but returns to the pool mostly in the same place. Whilst mustard algae is fairly easy to kill its spores remain viable, dry, for months so the pool is continually exposed.

 

  1. Thoroughly backwash your filter – This ensures efficient filtration during the treatment period.
  2. Add Lo-Chlor Knock-Out Algaecide at the recommended dose for the volume of your pool water.
  3. Lower the pH – For this treatment between 7.0-7.2.
  4. Thoroughly brush all wall and floor surfaces – Always use a suitable algae brush.
  5. Add Miraclear Pool Clarifier – This will help bring together all fine particles and continue to filter for a 12-hour period. Turn the pump off and vacuum any visible residue to waste.
  6. Sterilise Filter and Other Pool Equipment – For a sand filter add 2 litres of Liquid Chlorine into the filter via the inlet quick connector. (If this is not possible add the Chlorine into the skimmer with the pump running and count to three and turn off the pump). For cartridge and D.E. filter, soak overnight in a 1:10 Liquid Chlorine solution.
  7. Sterilise hose, vacuum head, pool toys and anything else that has been in the pool by soaking in 1:20 Liquid Chlorine solution for at least 2 hours. Wash all bather costumes.
  8. Test Phosphate Level & add a Lo-Chlor Phosphate Remover – Your choice will be dependent on the level of phosphate however in most circumstances Starver® X would be the best product to use at this stage.
  9. Add Algaecide – Turn the circulation pump back on then add your Lo-Chlor Algaecide of choice.
  10. Re-Balance Pool – It is important that post treatment you re-balance your pool ensuring all parameters are within the recommended levels. With mustard algae you should maintain Free Chlorine levels at 3.0ppm and pH at 7.2 to 7.6 for the next month. We suggest ongoing regular use of Starver® Phosphate Remover to ensure phosphate do not make the algae reappear.

Please note: During this treatment process the use of the pool is prohibited until the pool water has been correctly re-balanced in line with the recommended parameters.

Distributors

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Address

Lo-Chlor Chemicals Limited
Unit 6
Seaway Parade Industrial Estate
Baglan
Port Talbot
SA12 7BR